Most travel brochures describe Chaco Culture National Historical Park as a "spiritual sanctuary" or a "bucket-list destination" for the soul. They show you golden hour photos of perfectly stacked stone walls and talk about "communing with the spirits" in the high desert of New Mexico. But if you have spent any time following my adventures, you know that things rarely go according to the brochure. We have a unique knack for turning a standard six-hour drive into a ten-hour ody