How to Install a Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar to Fix Death Wobble
Updated: Aug 28
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📌 TL;DR / Quick Summary
Rear Stability Matters: Eliminating Death Wobble and rear-end "wag" starts with a solid rear foundation to keep your rear axle properly centered and planted.
Heavy-Duty Upgrade: Upgrading from the hollow, 3 lb OEM bar to the 12+ lb solid Chromoly MetalCloak DuroTrak drastically increases rigidity and dampens road vibration with patented DuroTrak bushings.
Straightforward DIY Install: Match the eyelet-to-eyelet length on the bench (approx. 33 ¾" center-to-center), apply anti-seize, bolt into place, and torque down to spec (100 ft-lbs axle side / 90 ft-lbs frame side).
Part of the "Nuclear Option": This install serves as a key foundational step in fully rebuilding and stabilizing the Gladiator’s steering and suspension system.
What You Will Learn In This Post
Tackling the infamous Jeep "Death Wobble" usually directs all the attention to the front axle, but a wandering, unstable rear suspension will ruin your handling just as quickly. In this guide, you’ll learn why upgrading to a heavy-duty MetalCloak DuroTrak Rear Track Bar is essential for eliminating lateral oscillation, taming harsh road feedback, and setting up a rock-solid foundation for lifted rigs and rough overlanding routes.
We’ll break down the stark differences between the lightweight, hollow factory bar and the 12-pound solid Chromoly replacement—including how its patented DuroTrak bushings eliminate squeaks, clunks, and vibrations. You’ll also get a clear understanding of why baseline adjustability is critical for properly centering your rear axle prior to an alignment.
Finally, you’ll find a complete step-by-step DIY installation walkthrough, covering the exact tools you need, how to pre-set your track bar length on the workbench, and critical final torque specs. Along the way, you'll get practical garage tips—like using a cam strap for tricky frame-side torquing and paint-marking your hardware—to get the job done safely and right the first time.
Why a Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar Matters for Stability
When you’re fighting the dreaded "Death Wobble," most people focus entirely on the front end. However, you can’t have a rock-solid front end without a stable rear. Installing a heavy-duty Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar is one of the easiest ways to start your teardown and build-up process.
When you place the factory equipment next to the MetalCloak DuroTrak, the phrase "heavy-duty" finally starts to make sense. The OEM Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar is a lightweight, hollow tube designed for the average commuter, but it lacks the rigidity needed for lifted rigs or rough trails. By contrast, the MetalCloak upgrade is a solid Chromoly steel beast that nearly quadruples the weight of the stock part. This isn't just about bulk; it’s about eliminating the lateral "wag" and oscillation that triggers the Death Wobble. The Patented DuroTrak Bushings provide the final touch, offering a specialized durometer that absorbs road vibration without the harshness of a standard poly bushing.
Check out the next article in the Death Wobble Series - Upper Control Arm Install- Critical for Setting Caster
Weighing the Components: Hollow Tube vs. Solid Chromoly
Holy cow, these MetalCloak parts are heavy! When I removed the OEM Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar, it was the exact opposite—it felt like a featherweight by comparison. While the stock bar is a simple hollow tube, the DuroTrak is a solid Chromoly beast built to handle the real-world stress of overlanding. Beyond the massive weight difference, the adjustability of the MetalCloak bar allows you to perfectly center your axle after a lift, making it the perfect upgrade to the Gladiator for anyone looking to kill the wobble and improve ride quality.
Rattles Squeaks & Clunks - Oh My! (Not With The DuroTrak)
These patented DuroTrak bushings are famous for soaking up the vibrations that lead to those white-knuckle driving moments. Whether you’re building a dedicated overlander or just want to ensure your daily driver is safe after a lift, upgrading your Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar provides the lateral stability necessary to keep your axle centered and your ride smooth.
Step-by-Step Installation: Replacing Your Factory Track Bar
Installing a heavy-duty Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar is one of the most straightforward upgrades you can do to stabilize your suspension. While "Death Wobble" is often associated with the front end, a solid rear foundation is critical for a predictable ride.
Tools and Prep for the Install
Before you dive in, grab a 21mm socket and a 13/16" wrench (they are nearly identical if you're missing the 21mm). You’ll also want a torque wrench capable of hitting 100 ft-lbs and some anti-seize for the adjustment threads. I recommend placing a jack under the rear of the Gladiator just to prevent the axle from shifting once the factory hardware is pulled.
Adjusting the MetalCloak DuroTrak to Stock Length
Remove the Stock Bar: Use your impact or a breaker bar to remove the 21mm hardware. The axle side has a flag nut, while the frame side requires a backup wrench.
Match the Length: Take both bars to the bench. Lay the OEM bar over the MetalCloak DuroTrak and adjust the new bar until the eyelets line up perfectly. For my build, this measured exactly 33 and 3/4 inches center-to-center.
Prep the Threads: Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads of the adjustable end. This ensures that when you head to the alignment shop, the technician can actually turn the adjuster without a fight.
Final Torque Specs and Alignment Prep
Once you’ve slid the new Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar into place and hand-started your factory bolts, it’s time to lock it down.
Axle Side: Torque to 100 ft-lbs.
Frame Side: Torque to 90 ft-lbs.
Muddy Ruttzz Tip: If your backup wrench keeps slipping while you're torquing the frame side, use a small cam strap to tie the wrench off to a solid point on the frame. This lets you use both hands on the torque wrench for an accurate click. Finally, use a paint pen or Sharpie to mark your jam nut so you can visually verify if anything shifts before your professional alignment.
Part 2 of the Muddy Ruttzz Death Wobble Series (The Nuclear Option)
This installation is just one piece of the puzzle. We are rebuilding this steering and suspension system component by component until this Jeep drives better than the day it left the showroom floor.
Check out part 1 of the "Death Wobble Series" on Youtube - Jeep Death Wobble is No Fun! (Choosing the Nuclear Option)
Check out the Playlist for the "Death Wobble Series" - Death Wobble Fix: Critical Parts Installs Series
Conclusion: One Step Closer to a Rock-Solid Ride
At the end of the day, you can’t build a house on a shaky foundation, and you can’t fix a Jeep Gladiator steering nightmare by ignoring the rear end. Swapping that hollow factory tube for the solid Chromoly MetalCloak DuroTrak is a massive win for stability. It’s a straightforward install that gives you immediate peace of mind and sets the stage for the rest of our "Nuclear Option" build.
We’re checking off these parts one by one until this Gladiator handles better than it did the day I drove it off the lot. If you're tired of that "rear-end wag" and want a Jeep that actually goes where you point it, don't overlook this track bar upgrade.
Join the Muddy Ruttzz Community!
If this guide helped you out, there are a few ways you can support the brand so I can keep bringing you these unsponsored, deep-dive tutorials:
Subscribe on YouTube: Don’t miss Part 3 of the Death Wobble series! Click here to subscribe to Muddy Ruttzz and hit that notification bell.
Watch the Series: Catch up on the full Death Wobble Playlist to see the teardown from the beginning.
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Drop a Comment: Have you dealt with the "wag" after a lift? What parts are you using to kill the wobble? Let’s talk about it in the comments below!
Remember, on Muddy Ruttzz, the best is yet to come!
About the Author
Muddy Ruttzz is a digital creator, overlander, and DIY builder documenting rugged vehicle builds and outdoor adventures. Backed by a career in industrial sheet metal fabrication, heavy infrastructure construction, and mechanical maintenance, he provides practical, trade-tested technical guides for real-world off-road performance.
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