How to Install a Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar to Fix Death Wobble
- Muddy Ruttzz
- 1 day ago
- 6 min read
Why a Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar Matters for Stability
When you’re fighting the dreaded "Death Wobble," most people focus entirely on the front end. However, you can’t have a rock-solid front end without a stable rear. Installing a heavy-duty Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar is one of the easiest ways to start your teardown and build-up process.
Muddy Ruttzz Youtube Channel
My Articles and videos are unsponsored and all opinions are my own.
Support Us! Use my ✅ affiliate links from Amazon & eBay throughout and at the end of this article. I get a commission without any additional cost to you. You don't have to buy the listed product. I get credit if you click and purchase anything within 24 hours. Your support means the world to me! Learn More
When you place the factory equipment next to the MetalCloak DuroTrak, the phrase "heavy-duty" finally starts to make sense. The OEM Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar is a lightweight, hollow tube designed for the average commuter, but it lacks the rigidity needed for lifted rigs or rough trails. By contrast, the MetalCloak upgrade is a solid Chromoly steel beast that nearly quadruples the weight of the stock part. This isn't just about bulk; it’s about eliminating the lateral "wag" and oscillation that triggers the Death Wobble. The Patented DuroTrak Bushings provide the final touch, offering a specialized durometer that absorbs road vibration without the harshness of a standard poly bushing.
Weighing the Components: Hollow Tube vs. Solid Chromoly
Holy cow, these MetalCloak parts are heavy! When I removed the OEM Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar, it was the exact opposite—it felt like a featherweight by comparison. While the stock bar is a simple hollow tube, the DuroTrak is a solid Chromoly beast built to handle the real-world stress of overlanding. Beyond the massive weight difference, the adjustability of the MetalCloak bar allows you to perfectly center your axle after a lift, making it the perfect upgrade to the Gladiator for anyone looking to kill the wobble and improve ride quality.
Rattles Squeaks & Clunks - Oh My! (Not With The DuroTrak)
These patented DuroTrak bushings are famous for soaking up the vibrations that lead to those white-knuckle driving moments. Whether you’re building a dedicated overlander or just want to ensure your daily driver is safe after a lift, upgrading your Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar provides the lateral stability necessary to keep your axle centered and your ride smooth.
Step-by-Step Installation: Replacing Your Factory Track Bar
Installing a heavy-duty Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar is one of the most straightforward upgrades you can do to stabilize your suspension. While "Death Wobble" is often associated with the front end, a solid rear foundation is critical for a predictable ride.
Tools and Prep for the Install
Before you dive in, grab a 21mm socket and a 13/16" wrench (they are nearly identical if you're missing the 21mm). You’ll also want a torque wrench capable of hitting 100 ft-lbs and some anti-seize for the adjustment threads. I recommend placing a jack under the rear of the Gladiator just to prevent the axle from shifting once the factory hardware is pulled.
Adjusting the MetalCloak DuroTrak to Stock Length
Remove the Stock Bar: Use your impact or a breaker bar to remove the 21mm hardware. The axle side has a flag nut, while the frame side requires a backup wrench.
Match the Length: Take both bars to the bench. Lay the OEM bar over the MetalCloak DuroTrak and adjust the new bar until the eyelets line up perfectly. For my build, this measured exactly 33 and 3/4 inches center-to-center.
Prep the Threads: Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads of the adjustable end. This ensures that when you head to the alignment shop, the technician can actually turn the adjuster without a fight.
Final Torque Specs and Alignment Prep
Once you’ve slid the new Jeep Gladiator Rear Track Bar into place and hand-started your factory bolts, it’s time to lock it down.
Axle Side: Torque to 100 ft-lbs.
Frame Side: Torque to 90 ft-lbs.
Muddy Ruttzz Tip: If your backup wrench keeps slipping while you're torquing the frame side, use a small cam strap to tie the wrench off to a solid point on the frame. This lets you use both hands on the torque wrench for an accurate click. Finally, use a paint pen or Sharpie to mark your jam nut so you can visually verify if anything shifts before your professional alignment.
Part 2 of the Muddy Ruttzz Death Wobble Series (The Nuclear Option)
This installation is just one piece of the puzzle. We are rebuilding this steering and suspension system component by component until this Jeep drives better than the day it left the showroom floor.
Check out part 1 of the "Death Wobble Series" on Youtube - Jeep Death Wobble is No Fun! (Choosing the Nuclear Option)
Check out the Playlist for the "Death Wobble Series" - Death Wobble Fix: Critical Parts Installs Series
Conclusion: One Step Closer to a Rock-Solid Ride
At the end of the day, you can’t build a house on a shaky foundation, and you can’t fix a Jeep Gladiator steering nightmare by ignoring the rear end. Swapping that hollow factory tube for the solid Chromoly MetalCloak DuroTrak is a massive win for stability. It’s a straightforward install that gives you immediate peace of mind and sets the stage for the rest of our "Nuclear Option" build.
We’re checking off these parts one by one until this Gladiator handles better than it did the day I drove it off the lot. If you're tired of that "rear-end wag" and want a Jeep that actually goes where you point it, don't overlook this track bar upgrade.
Join the Muddy Ruttzz Community!
If this guide helped you out, there are a few ways you can support the brand so I can keep bringing you these unsponsored, deep-dive tutorials:
Subscribe on YouTube: Don’t miss Part 3 of the Death Wobble series! Click here to subscribe to Muddy Ruttzz and hit that notification bell.
Watch the Series: Catch up on the full Death Wobble Playlist to see the teardown from the beginning.
Support the Shop: If you're picking up parts for your own build, consider using my Amazon or eBay affiliate links below. It doesn’t cost you a penny extra, but it helps keep the lights on in the garage and the videos coming!
Drop a Comment: Have you dealt with the "wag" after a lift? What parts are you using to kill the wobble? Let’s talk about it in the comments below!
Remember, on Muddy Ruttzz, the best is yet to come!
#JeepGladiator #DeathWobble #MetalCloak #MuddyRuttzz #JeepMaintenance #Overlanding #JeepDIY #DuroTrak #OffRoadBuild #4x4Repair
Merch Section
✅ - Zarges Aluminum Cases - Best Made Overlanding Storage Cases. When you require the best protection for you gear. Bear Resitant available. (Zarges)
✅ - MERCH Availabe on Spreadshop - Awesome Original Design Shirts and Merch - Muddy Ruttzz Clothing.
Click Here to See my Zarges Blogpost.
Affiliate Disclosure
As a Amazon Affiliate and Ebay Partner I receive a commission if you use my links to make a qualifying purchase. It does not raise the price you pay.
