MetalCloak Track Bar Install: The Nuclear Option for Jeep Death Wobble
- Muddy Ruttzz
- 1 day ago
- 8 min read
Updated: 8 minutes ago
When you’re dealing with a Jeep Gladiator or Wrangler shaking itself apart, sometimes you have to stop chasing small fixes and go nuclear. That is exactly what I’m doing in Part 5 of my Death Wobble series. Today, we are performing a MetalCloak Track Bar install to replace the thin, hollow factory unit with something that actually has the "beef" required for heavy off-road use.
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Why The Durotrak is the Ultimate Upgrade
That hollow OEM track bar and its rubber bushings are fine for Jeeps that stick to tarmac and mall parking lots. But the moment you add a lift kit and 35s, then point your tires toward the dirt and rocks, you need a beefy track bar that handles the stress and bushings that actually reduce NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness).
One of the biggest wins with the Durotrak is serviceability. If you put your rig to the test and finally wear out a bushing, there’s no need for a hydraulic press. Just pop the bar off, unthread the old bushing, and spin in a new one. You get all the heavy-duty performance of a professional setup with none of the maintenance headaches.
Feature | OEM Factory Track Bar | MetalCloak Durotrak |
Material | Hollow Steel Tube | Solid 4130 Chromoly |
Weight | 8 lbs 12 oz | 12 lbs 14 oz |
Bushing | Standard Rubber (Pressed) | Patented Durotrak (Threaded) |
Adjustment | Fixed Length | Fully Adjustable (Axle Centering) |
Comparing the Beef: Solid 4130 Chromoly vs. Hollow OEM
Here are the key details you need to know. This weigh-in reveals a significant difference: the Durotrak is over 4 pounds heavier, coming in at 12 lbs 14 oz compared to just 8 lbs 12 oz. Constructed from durable 4130 Chromoly, the Durotrak is over 45% heavier than the standard factory model, which is often referred to as a hollow toothpick. This added weight contributes to its critical rigidity, enhancing overall performance.
Step-by-Step: The MetalCloak Durotrak Install
My specific install was a bit of a "perfect storm" of upgrades. Because I was simultaneously installing a Steer Smarts Sector Shaft Brace and Track Bar Bracket Reinforcement, along with the MetalCloak Rocksport Steering Stabilizer bracket, I had some tight tolerances to navigate.
If you're tackling a standard track bar swap, the process is straightforward. However, if you have a complex front-end setup like mine, keep reading for the tricks I used to make everything line up.
The Standard Install Process
Safety First: Park your Jeep on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels.
Remove the OEM Bar: Unbolt the two massive bolts (axle side and frame side) holding the factory bar in place. You’ll likely need a breaker bar for this.
Anti-Seize: Hit the threads on the adjuster side so you can adjust or take it apart if you ever need to.
The Measurement Match: Lay your old bar and the new Durotrak side-by-side on the bench. Use a tape measure to match the eye-to-eye measurement exactly (refer back to the photo above).
Hardware Check: Re-install the new bar using your existing factory hardware.
The Alignment Trick: If the axle shifted while the bar was out and the holes don’t line up, don't sweat it. Hook a ratchet strap to a solid point on the body and another to the frame. Gently ratcheting the strap will pull the body back into alignment with the axle so you can slide the bolts through.
Torque It Down: Torque both the frame and axle-side bolts to 110 ft-lbs.
For the Complex Builds: Beyond the Basics
If your front end is crowded with braces and stabilizers like mine, "straightforward" goes out the window. Here is how I handled the tight clearances with the Steer Smarts brace and the new Rocksport dampener bracket:
MetalCloak Track Bar Install: Navigating the Frame-Side Curveballs
Starting at the frame side with the Steer Smarts Track Bar Frame Reinforcement already in place changed the game. Here is how I handled the tight tolerances and unexpected interference:
The Anti-Seize Rule
Don't skip this. I hit the adjuster threads with a generous coat of anti-seize. This ensures that when it’s time for an alignment a year from now, the bar actually moves instead of being seized solid by road grime.
Precision Bolt Clearance
After stacking the Steer Smarts brace over the factory mount, the holes were just a hair off. My drift pin couldn't quite force the alignment, so I broke out the AWS Reamer. A quick pass cleared the path, and it was mission accomplished for the hardware.
Overcoming Interference (The "Too Tight" Factor)
On the first attempt, the bushing hit a wall. The OEM sheet metal under the reinforcement was slightly flared—just enough to block the new Durotrak bushing. I used a pair of vise grips to flatten the metal back into spec. It was still a tight fit, but at least the path was clear.
Shoehorning the Bushing
Once the bushing was started, it needed a little "motivation" to find its home. I used a scrap 4x4 block and a BFH to drive it into the bracket without damaging the finish. One final nudge with the drift pin, and the grade 8 bolt penetrated all the way through.
Torque the bolt to 110 ft lbs.
Frame Side: Attached. Axle Side: Next!
ProPro-Tip: When using a reamer on suspension brackets, go slow. You only want to remove enough material to allow the bolt to pass freely; keeping those tolerances tight is what prevents future "clunking" or movement.
MetalCloak Track Bar Install: Navigating the Axle-Side Curveballs
The axle side threw a few wrinkles my way, but nothing a resourceful DIY mechanic can’t handle. As you can see in the photos, I also added a new MetalCloak Steering Dampener Mount as part of my "Nuclear Option" to finally cure this Jeep of the dreaded Death Wobble.
Centering Over The Axle Getting the holes to line up is the ultimate test of patience. I’ll detail the full centering process later in the article, but for now, the secret is a heavy-duty ratchet strap. I connected it to the frame and the axle, slowly clicking it until the body shifted back into a perfect line.
Breaking Out The Crowbar Just like the frame side, the bushing didn't just slide in. The OEM track bar bushing isn't quite as wide as the beefy MetalCloak version. Plus, years of torquing a factory bar to 110 ft-lbs can slightly distort or "squeeze" the bracket. I hooked my crowbar into the mount and gave it a solid stomp to spread the gap just enough to slide the gold bar in.
Adjustment Required There is "Engineer Fit" (matching the bars on the bench) and then there is "Real World Fit." Even though we matched the lengths earlier, you will likely need to fine-tune the adjuster collar once the bar is in the bracket to get that bolt to slide through smoothly.
Bolt Up & Torque The axle side uses a factory flag nut on the backside, which makes reaching it a lot easier. Once the grade 8 hardware is through, we torqued it down to 110 ft-lbs for a rock-solid connection.
Note: Don't forget to re-check those torque specs after your first 50–100 miles. Suspension parts like to settle, and a quick check ensures your "Nuclear Option" stays rock solid.
Centering the Axle: The Muddy Ruttzz Level Method
Sometimes you have to adapt to get the job done. While a plumb bob is the standard tool for centering a Jeep axle, I didn't have one handy. What I did have was a 2-foot level and a blue marker. The principle remains the same: it’s all about finding your "true north" before you tighten those bolts.
The Centering Procedure
Body Center: First, find the exact center point between your frame rails. I marked this on the oil pan with a blue Sharpie (as shown in the photo). This gives you a fixed reference point on the body that sits directly above the axle.
Axle Center: To find the center of the axle, measure between two identical points on either side—I used the sway bar mounts. Transfer these marks down to the garage floor. The halfway point between those marks on the floor is the true center of your axle.
The Alignment: Whether you use a plumb bob or a level, the goal is to drop a perfectly vertical line from your body mark down to the center of the axle . If they don't line up, use your ratchet strap to pull the body over until your level confirms the body mark is perfectly centered over the axle mark.
Pro-Tip: If you’re working alone, a welding magnet can help hold a plumb bob (or even a weighted string) to the frame or oil pan while you focus on the ratchet strap.
Conclusion: Will a Track Bar Cure Death Wobble?
I'm not counting on the installation of this MetalCloak Track Bar to cure my Gladiator of it's Death Wobble problem but it's a darn fine part and a massive upgrade. I won't know how well my Nuclear Option of replacing all the usual Death Wobble suspect parts at once will work till I finally get to the alignment shop and head out for a highway and off-road test drive.
The Entire Series of Videos and Blog Posts:
This is just one what will be 8 or 9 installments of my video and blog article series on taking this 2022 Gladiator Ecodiesel from a quivering mess back to a off-roading, overlanding, highway driving and Trailer Towing Beast. Check out the related posts at the bottom of this article and follow along with the whole process. Also use this link see all the videos in the playlist on Youtube: Death Wobble Fix: Critical Parts Installs Series.
Check All the Great DIY, Adventure & Gear Review Videos on Muddy Ruttzz and my articles here on the Muddy Ruttzz Gazette!
I'm Muddy Ruttzzz and I wrote this article and create all the videos.
Don't forget, on Muddy Ruttzz, The Best Is Yet To Come!
About Muddy Ruttzz - Muddy is a retired sheet metal worker with over 40 years of experience in HVAC and project management. When he isn't in his Las Cruces studio "Casa Encuentro del Sol" creating content for the Muddy Ruttzz YouTube channel, he’s likely out in the desert or the mountains putting his 2022 Jeep Gladiator EcoDiesel to the ultimate test.
#JeepGladiator #DeathWobble #MetalCloak #JeepDIY #Overlanding #MuddyRuttzz #JeepWrangler #OffRoadRepair #JeepLife #DIYMechanic
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