MetalCloak Billet Mount Install: The Secret Tool Hack for Tight Clearances
- Muddy Ruttzz
- 1 day ago
- 7 min read
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Let’s be honest: even the most straightforward Jeep upgrades can turn into a battle. I recently decided to swap out my standard MetalCloak steering stabilizer mount for their Billet Aluminum version. There was nothing inherently wrong with the steel mount, but a botched installation—complete with a snapped U-bolt and a bent bracket—left me wanting something beefier and more reliable.
The upgrade to the billet unit is a massive improvement in aesthetics and strength, but it brought a new set of hurdles. The clearance between the mount and the drag link is incredibly tight, making it nearly impossible to get a standard torque wrench in place. I realized that to do this right and hit the required 10–12 ft-lb torque spec, I was going to have to stop wrenching and start fabricating.
In the recap video below, I’m walking you through the entire process, including the "secret" DIY tool hack I used to solve the clearance issue. I’ll show you how I created custom shorty Allen sockets and the trick to seating the stabilizer bolt into a stubborn bushing. If you're planning on running this MetalCloak setup, this recap will save you the headache I had to learn the hard way.
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Why Upgrade to the MetalCloak Billet Aluminum Stabilizer Mount?
Hey guys, Muddy Ruttzz here. I recently tackled a project on my Jeep Gladiator that started as a simple fix but quickly turned into a "fight." While there is absolutely nothing wrong with the standard steel mount that MetalCloak provides with their steering systems, I managed to make a bit of a mess during my initial installation. Between breaking a U-bolt and bending the bracket, I decided it was time to move to the much beefier Billet Aluminum version.
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The Problem: Broken U-Bolts and Clearance Issues
I broke a U-Bolt and bent the steel bracket. Ace Hardware had a replacement U-Bolt but I had made my mind up to change the steel version out. Mechanically it will hold your steering stabilizer in that sweet spot that lets you turn lock to lock but the Billet Aluminum version looks so much better doing it.
Pro Tip; Removing the Steel Mount from the Stabilizer Bushing
Because the original mount was bolted tightly to the stabilizer, it became wedged firmly into the bushing over time. I initially tried using Channel Lock pliers to force it out unsuccessfully. What finally worked was actually unthreading the bolt entirely out of the bushing to relieve the pressure.
My DIY Tool Hack for Your MetalCloak Billet Mount Install
To solve this, I came up with a specialized discovery. I created custom "shorty" Allen sockets by cutting a 3/16" Allen wrench into small sections and pressing them into 3/16" sockets. These custom tools gave me the perfect reach to access the bolts without interference. If you are planning your own MetalCloak Billet Mount Install, having a set of these on hand will save you a major headache.
Step-by-Step Recap: Achieving Proper Torque in Tight Spaces
Getting a MetalCloak Billet Mount install right requires a bit of finesse and the right sequence. Here is the play-by-play on how to move from a bent steel bracket to a precision-torqued billet setup.
Remove the Old Hardware: Start by removing the existing stabilizer mount. Back off the U-bolts and remove the main stabilizer bolt nut.
Apply Blue Loctite: Before you start assembly, apply Blue Loctite to all fasteners: the four body Allen bolts and the main stabilizer bolt. This is critical for parts that live on the steering system and see constant vibration.
Seat the Main Bolt: Insert the MetalCloak-provided 3/4" bolt into the stabilizer bushing. If the fit is tight (as mine was), use a socket on the backside of the bushing and a hammer to carefully tap the bolt through.
Avoid Cross-Threading: Take the top half of the Billet Mount and hand-thread it onto the stabilizer bolt. Do this before it’s on the tie rod to ensure the threads are started perfectly without the risk of cross-threading the aluminum.
Position on the Tie Rod: Place the top portion of the mount over the tie rod.
Loose Assembly: Attach the bottom half of the mount using the four Allen bolts. Leave these loose for now so you can slide the mount for adjustment.
Check Your Clearance: Follow the MetalCloak instructions to set the final position of the mount on the tie rod. This is where you verify that your wheels can turn lock-to-lock without any binding or interference.
Final Torque (Body Bolts): Use your custom "shorty" 3/16" sockets to reach the four Allen bolts. Torque these to 10–12 ft-lbs.
Final Torque (Main Bolt): Once the mount is locked to the tie rod, torque the main 3/4" stabilizer bolt to 50–59 ft-lbs.
Dealing with Stubborn Steering Stabilizer Bushings
My custom-length Allen sockets were the key to reaching and torquing all the body Allen bolts to spec. However, getting the new bolt into that stubborn stabilizer bushing required a bit more "persuasion." I initially tried using Channel Lock pliers to force it through, but the fit was too tight. What finally worked was using a socket as a backstop with the shock pulled down and turned facing the tie rod and carefully hammering the bolt through the bushing to seat it properly.
Critical Torque Specs for the MetalCloak Billet Mount
MetalCloak Billet Stabilizer Mount Torque Specifications
Component | Fastener Size | Torque Spec | Tool Required |
Billet Body Bolts (x4) | 3/16" Allen | 10–12 ft-lbs | Custom 3/16" Shorty Socket |
Main Stabilizer Bolt | 3/4" Hex Head | 50–59 ft-lbs | 3/4" Socket & Torque Wrench |
Pro-Tip: Always apply Blue Loctite to all threads before final torquing. These components are subject to constant vibration and "steering cycle" stress.
Muddy Ruttzz Pro-Tips for this Build:
The Clearance Hack: Use a grinder to cut a standard 3/16" Allen wrench in half. Press these into 3/16" sockets to create "shorty" and "long" versions. This is the only way to reach the body bolts without hitting the drag link.
The Bushing Fight: If the main bolt won't seat in the stabilizer bushing, don't force it with pliers. Use a socket as a backstop on your bench and "persuade" it through with a hammer.
Thread Safety: Hand-thread the top half of the billet mount onto the stabilizer bolt before placing it on the tie rod. This prevents cross-threading the precision-machined aluminum.
Conclusion: A Solid Part That Compliments The Entire Steering System
MetalCloak makes high quality parts that perform exceptionally well. The Billet Aluminum Steering Stabilizer Mount is no excepton. Just looking at in the photo above you can see its going to make you feel good about your rig. It also has the added feature of not having flanges to get caught on stuff while off-roading.
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About Muddy Ruttzz - Muddy is a retired sheet metal worker with over 40 years of experience in HVAC and project management. When he isn't in his Las Cruces studio "Casa Encuentro del Sol" creating content for the Muddy Ruttzz YouTube channel, he’s likely out in the desert or the mountains putting his 2022 Jeep Gladiator EcoDiesel to the ultimate test.
#MetalCloak #JeepGladiator #SteeringStabilizer #JeepDIY #MuddyRuttzz #JeepWrangler #ToolHack #JeepMaintenance #Overlanding #OffRoadMods
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